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INSTRUCTIONS FOR
GROUP BADGE SUBMISSION FORM
Please print legibly and in dark
ink. Do not use fancy fonts or calligraphy.
You will be using the regular Badge Submission Form to submit a group’s
device. Submitter/Submission Info Society Name: Write in the name
of the group. If the group is submitting a NEW name along with the badge, write
the name the group wants. If the group has already registered a Branch Name, or
if it has one in progress, write the group's Branch Name in full, spelled
exactly as the College of Arms registered it (or as it was submitted if it's in
progress). Please put the branch type (Shire, Barony, Canton, etc.) and the
following preposition at the end. For example: "Dun Ard, Shire of", "Steppes,
Barony of the". This name is (pick one): Mark
the box that shows the current registration status of the Group’s Name.
"Previously submitted..." means it's still in progress but not yet accepted or
returned. Legal name, Address: For a
Barony this should be the Baron or Baroness. For any other type of group this
should be the seneschal. When the herald’s office needs to send a letter,
they’ll use this mailing address. E-mail address, Phone number:
Self-explanatory. (Faster ways for the herald’s office to contact submitter
with questions.) Date submitted: Optional. The
date you hand the form to your local herald. Date of birth:
Leave blank. Consulting herald, Herald's e-mail /
phone: Name and contact for who
helped submitter. If submitter was own consultant, they may put their own name
or leave it blank. (Another means of contact in case of questions.) If using any restricted charges:
Optional. Used only in cases where the device uses a restricted charge (e. g., a
white belt, coronet, etc.) Proposed blazon: Write in what
you think the blazon of the design is.
Is this badge jointly owned? YES/No
& Co-owner's Society Name: You
should mark this as “No” and leave the Co-owner name section blank. The badge
belongs to the group as a whole, not any individuals. Check here for a fieldless badge:
In period many personal badges heraldic used objects without a fixed background
color. An example is the Yorkist badge that was: [Fieldless] A rose argent. If
you want a fieldless badge, mark this box and don't color in the background of
the badge. Action type:
Mark box that applies to the type of action this is. For a Resubmission or an
Appeal, also check the box for the level (Kingdom or Laurel) that returned the
previous submission. The Badge If you have difficulty drawing,
consider getting a heraldic artist. Non-heraldic art may cause confusion or a
return of the submission. Make elements “Big, Bold, and Butch” to fill the
space available within reason. Please use thickish lines for major outlines, to
help computer scanning. For example, the outline of the roundel shape on the
form is a nice thickness. Make your original a black-and-white
outline drawing. Use black ink. Don't use blue, grey or pencil. (This allows
copies to be made more easily.) Do not fill in black areas. Think "coloring
book" drawing. One easy way to complete badge forms is to fill out the info
portion on a blank badge form then draw the design on the large roundel
(circle). Once this is done, make the small roundel by reducing the large
roundel on a photocopier (reduce the picture by 65% then 50% or by 50% then 65%
- either way works). Then cut out and tape the small roundel on the form. This
becomes your "master copy". Make the copies needed from the master copy. It's
much easier than drawing ten separate copies. The completed small roundel
MUST be on the forms or the submission will be returned. When coloring a badge, avoid neon
colors or pastel shades. The colors should be as close to true as possible. Use
markers that don't smear or run. Crayons and colored pencils do not usually work
very well. Colored pencils don't make a good solid color and they fade. Crayons
have the same problems, plus they can make the forms stick together. Don’t use
metallic markers because they don't last, flake off, and may end up looking dark
brown or black instead of silver or gold. When you make a banner or place your
armory on a fighting shield, etc. you can use metallic paints but please, when
you color in your submission forms, use white for argent (even if you mean it to
be silver) and plain yellow for Or (even if you hate yellow). Avoid using color printers. The ink is
not stable and within weeks the purple you printed might turn red or blue or
even black. Blues tend to fade, greens turn blue and reds can end up pink in a
matter of days. It is extremely important that the colors on the forms stay the
same throughout the submission process at the very least and, hopefully, longer.
These forms have to last for years in Laurel-Sovereign-of-Arms' filing cabinet,
where they will be examined to help resolve possible conflicts and other
heraldic issues in the future. Therefore the longer the colors stay true, the
better. So what can you use to color in the
forms? We recommend good watercolor markers and implore you to stick with good
solid midrange colors (not sky-blue or midnight blue, just blue, etc).
Crayola Classics markers are a good, inexpensive set of markers that are
excellent to use. (Make sure it is NOT the washable variety.) When coloring in the
badge forms, NEVER color or shade in the small picture. |
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This is the recognized Web Page for the Saker Herald's
Office for the Kingdom of Calontir of the
Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. The maintainer of this page is Sheryl
Niemann (Lady Ines Alfon). It is not a corporate publication of The Society for
Creative Anachronism, Inc. and does not delineate SCA policies. In cases of
conflict with printed versions of material presented on this page, the conflict
will be decided in favor of the printed version.
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